Professional Climbing Resume

Grant, Ryan and Jenn Statham

I have been a lifestyle climber since 1985, and a professional guide since not long after. I am certified by the ACMG and the UIAGM, and am the sole proprietor of Alpine Specialists, out of Canmore. My focus is custom, low ratio trips to exciting climbs all over the world - but primarily in the Canadian Rockies. I was employed by Yamnuska Mountain School for the first 8 years of my guiding career, and since 1998 have been entirely self employed. I place high value on personal climbing, and continue to push my personal limits and work on my own wish list whenever possible. Following are my most significant climbs:

Significant Alpine Climbs

· Southeast Ridge Ama Dablam - guiding 2000
· North to South Traverse Imja Tse (Island Peak) Nepal - guiding 2000
· South Face Mt. Asgard, Baffin Island - First ascent of Polar Thievery 1998
· South Ridge Mt. Alberta - guiding 1998 (high on the North Face in 1997)
· East Ridge Mt. Logan - First guided ascent 1996
· Southeast (Scottish) Pillar, Bhagirathi 3 - Gharwal Himalayas, India 1995
· South Face McArthur Peak, St. Elias - First ascent of Astrofloyd 1992
· Northeast Face Mt. Chephren - Second ascent of The Wild Thing 1992
· North Face of Pinnacle Peak (St. Elias) - First ascent 1994
· North Face of Mt. Cromwell - Elzinga/Miller 1993
· North Face of Mt. Deltaform - Supercouloir 1989
· Mt. Andromeda - Andromeda Strain 1990
· North Face of Mt. Temple - Greenwood/Locke 1988 and Greenwood/Jones 1996
· Attempt to 6000 m North Face of Huascaran Norte - Peru 1989

Significant Rock Climbs

· Mescalito - El Capitan 2000
· Numerous desert towers including Moses, Washerwoman, Sister Superior, etc.
· South Ridge Mt. Proboscis (Cirque of the Unclimbables, NWT) - Third ascent 1997
· East Face of Mt. Babel 1996
· Northeast Face of The Windtower - Second free ascent 1990
· NW Face of Half Dome in a day - Yosemite 1988
· South Howser Tower (Becky/Chouinard) - Bugaboos 1996 and 2001 guiding
· Hundreds of long routes in Canada and the USA, redpoint 12a

Significant Waterfall and Mixed Climbs

· Sea of Vapors, fourth ascent
· Blessed Rage, second ascent
· Riptide
· Acid Howl
· The Terminator
· The French Reality
· The Replicant

· The Unicorn, second ascent
· Uniform Queen, second ascent
· The Auger Sanction, first ascent
· The Pencil, second ascent
· Nemesis, 3 times -guiding
· Curtain Call, 3 times - guiding
· Weeping Pillar, 2 times - guiding

Professional Skiing Resume

1994 - Present: Professional Mountain Guide, UIAGM certified. Sole Proprietor of Alpine Specialists based in Canmore, Alberta. Freelance ski guide - custom alpine trips, skiing or climbing. Ski traverses, local touring, film work, avalanche consulting, freelance forecasting, etc.

1992 - Present: Helicopter Ski Guide in British Columbia. Employed for two years by CMH Heli Skiing. Eight seasons contract guiding since. Employed primarily at Crescent Spur Heli Skiing where I have worked since the company's beginning. I have been the senior guide there for 5 years, have participated in all of the terrain exploration and establishment of our ski program as well as set up the operational guidelines.

1999 - 2001: Avalanche Forecaster and Mountain Safety Supervisor for the Red Bull Snow Thrill of Alaska. This has been the World Championships of Freeskiing and I have worked events in Valdez, Girdwood and Cordova Alaska. Responsible for terrain selection, avalanche forecasting and control, on venue safety and coordination of the safety team.

1998 - Present: Senior Avalanche Forecaster for the Canadian Avalanche Association. Responsible for authoring (with 3 others) the "Public Avalanche Bulletin" which is produced three times weekly and covers all the mountain ranges of southern BC and Alberta. Readership estimated at 400,000 annually.

1994 - Present: Instructor for the Canadian Avalanche Association Training Schools. These week long courses are prerequisites for employment in the ski guiding and avalanche control industry. The schools are internationally recognized for their high standards and certify 400 students annually.

1994 - Present: Private Sector Avalanche Consultant - various projects including: Avalanche control for railroad corridors; avalanche safety for logging operations; 2 years full time avalanche research into glide slab failure and development of remote forecasting tools (papers presented at ISSW '96).

1987- 1992: Ski patroller and senior avalanche forecaster for two different ski resorts in the Banff area. This is where I started in the industry.

SPONSORS

I am fortunate to have the support of two great companies for my clothing and equipment needs. I heartily recommend products from each of these companies - second rate gear is unacceptable in harsh environments, and I'm certain these guys you won't let you down.

Arcteryx - Simply put, this Canadian company makes the best outdoor clothing in the world. Every item is produced in Canada with unparalleled precision and care to ensure that you get the state of the art in outdoor clothing systems.

Black Diamond Equipment - To me, this is a company that represents the soul of climbing. A company owned by climbers - for climbers. Their commitment to product development and testing guarantees quality and safety in each piece of equipment.